Do you live or have a second home in a highly humid area?  If so, this article is for you.  The real question you have to be asking yourself is, what are you sleeping with?  Better yet what are you living with?

On average, we spend about one third of our time in bed. Up to 60% of the dust mites found in the home are actually living in your bed! Watch the CNN video below to learn more about dust mites.

According to the Center for Disease Control, a mattress can have anywhere between 10,000 to 10 million dust mites in it. Dust mites don’t bite, but they can make life pretty uncomfortable for you or any of your family members who suffer from allergies or asthma.

If you wake up with a stuffy head or have a hard time getting a good night’s sleep, it’s time to think about cleaning your bed, and it goes deeper than flipping the mattress or washing the sheets. Albemarle can help you clean your mattress to eliminate dust mites and neutralize the allergens that they produce.

Allergy Relief Treatment
The Albemarle mattress cleaning process is designed to thoroughly clean your mattress and effectively eliminate allergen problems.

Our mattress cleaning is a multi-step process:

• We vacuum the mattress on all sides to remove loose dirt and dust with HEPA-filtration or exterior vented vacuum.
• The Mattress is then steam cleaned on all surfaces with a special low moisture cleaning tool designed to leave the mattress as dry as possible. This will kill and remove most dust mites.
• Allergy Relief Treatment™, a hypoallergenic solution that effectively neutralizes the allergens, is applied to all mattress surfaces using a fine mist application.
• A high velocity air mover is used to speed the drying process.
• Your mattress is then returned to your bed, ready for a good night’s sleep.

Albemarle also recommends that you clean the bedroom carpets, draperies, and any upholstered furniture pieces at the same time. The Allergy Relief Treatment™ can reduce levels of dust mite and pet allergens by 90% or more. You and your family will breathe easier- starting now.

Myth # 1 – Sewage from oceans, lakes or rivers is clean. This water contains contaminants such as microorganisms, bacteria and pesticides. Trapped inside walls or under floor coverings, it doesn’t take long to become a “smelly” health hazard.

Myth # 2 – Chlorine bleach decontaminates sewage. While bleach is a remedy, it’s quickly inactivated by sewage. Even dead fungi and bacteria may contain chemicals that cause an allergic response. Affected areas should be cleaned thoroughly, followed by appropriate disinfectant application.

Myth #3 – Sewage-saturated carpets can be “saved.” Absolutely not! Porous materials, such as carpet, pad, upholstery, bedding, wicker, paper goods, or fabrics that can’t be washed in hot water, must be disposed of safely.

Myth #4 – Partially sewage-flooded buildings are safe. Not unless contaminated areas can be sealed off to prevent cross-contamination of other areas. Only trained professionals using specialized equipment are qualified to restore sewage damage.

Professional carpet cleaners – It is to your advantage to use professional cleaners because their experience enables them to do a better job than you can do yourself. Their equipment has more extraction power than the rental units available to you, and the carpet should dry more quickly. True professionals have also made the investment in training to understand the equipment, to know the proper cleaning agents for the situation at hand, and to recognize the differences in fibers and carpet construction.

Shaw Industries recommends an IICRC technician (Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification).

Professional Cleaning – As a general rule, professional cleaning by a certified firm, should take place once per year. Many stain resist warranties require professional cleaning every 6 to 24 months or your warranty is void. This removes toxic pollutants for health reasons and helps with the performance of your carpet. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification, Carpet Rug Institute and your carpet manufacture they recommend hot water extraction every 6 to 12 months for health reasons. This is the industries minimum standard for the consumers protection.

Please read on for more facts about allergies, as well as practical tips on how to maintain the home to prevent allergies.

You can breathe easier in your home.
Ask the Allergist

What is an allergen?
An allergen is any substance that can trigger an allergic response. Besides indoor substances, outdoor pollens and foods are common allergens. When an allergic person encounters an allergen, the immune system becomes activated. This triggers a complex chain of events, which produce the symptoms of an allergic reaction, such as swelling of tissues, sneezing, wheezing, coughing, and other reactions. It is unclear why some substances trigger allergies and others do not.

Who gets allergies?
It is not yet fully understood why certain people get allergies while others do not. However, we do know that allergies can develop at any age, and heredity plays a key role in who will develop allergies. If one parent has allergies, the child will develop allergies 48 percent of the time, and if both parents have allergies, the child’s risk grows to 70 percent.

How can I find out more about allergies?
If you suspect you may be suffering from allergies, contact an allergist /immunologist. Your allergist can perform tests to determine the source of your allergies and then establish the best course of treatment. Often, the first step is to minimize your exposure to your particular allergen(s). You and your allergist can work together so that you can make appropriate changes in your environment.

How to Reduce Allergies in Your Home
Indoor allergens that can be found in the home include dust mites, pet dander, mold, and cockroach allergens. An allergist may recommend environmental control measures for the home depending upon the offending allergen. Complete avoidance may be difficult, but simple steps can be taken to reduce exposure:

Lack of circulation
Opening windows to let indoor allergens out of the home can bring outdoor allergens such as pollen and mold spores into the house. Instead, use heat and air conditioning to clean, circulate and dehumidify the air in the home. Also, using a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter to remove airborne allergens, such as pet dander, can lessen the amount of circulating allergens. Dust mites and cockroach allergens are heavy particles that do not stay suspended in the air and settle quickly, so air filters do not work well for these allergens.

Moisture
Dust mites and molds thrive only in high humidity areas. Maintain the home’s relative humidity level below 55 percent by using heat and/or air-conditioning equipment consistently and using a dehumidifier where necessary – doing so will discourage dust mites and mold growth. Repair all roof and plumbing leaks to prevent mold growth.

Cleaning

Cleaning is the best way to reduce allergens. Done regularly, cleaning stops allergens from accumulating, which helps minimize allergy and/or asthma symptoms. Pay special attention to the bedroom since most exposure to dust mites is while sleeping – 60 percent of dust mite allergen is found in mattresses and bedding. In order to control these allergens, wash bed linens in hot water (at least 130F) weekly and vacuum mattresses regularly. Comforters, blankets and curtains should be washed frequently. Encase pillows, mattresses and box springs in “allergen-control” covers, and freeze or wash stuffed animals weekly in hot water (at least 130F).

Clean and disinfect wet, warm areas – such as kitchens and bathrooms – weekly to stop mold growth.

Smooth floors should be vacuumed, dusted and wet mopped weekly. When sweeping, take care not to circulate dust from the floor into the air.

Vacuum carpet and rugs at least once a week – twice a week in bedrooms and high-traffic areas. Use a well-functioning vacuum cleaner that has adjustable brushes, and bears the Carpet and Rug Institute’s Vacuum Cleaner Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Testing Program green label. These are vacuum cleaners that have been tested for and meet strict standards for removing soil and containing the dust within the bag and the vacuum cleaner. Vacuum cleaners may produce dramatically different cleaning results and impact on the indoor environment. The green label program endorses only vacuum cleaners that perform each of the following three tasks well: soil removal, dust containment (without putting the dust back into the air) and carpet appearance retention.

Vacuum upholstered furniture regularly, and clean hard furniture with a damp cloth. A damp cloth should be used on window treatments, windowsills and window frames, ceiling fans, light fixtures, and storage units as well. Dust also can be reduced by storing books and knick-knacks in closed cabinets – doing so leaves fewer places for dust to settle and makes cleaning easier.

Your allergist/immunologist can provide you with more information on allergies.

There are 4 methods of carpet cleaning approved by the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification (IICRC), the world’s most recognized body of certification for carpet and upholstery cleaners.

Method 1: Hot Water Extraction

Otherwise known as “steam cleaning”, hot water extraction is the process that most are probably familiar with. Hot water extraction is the correct technical term, not steam cleaning. Actual steam is not used at all. A hot water solution is produced and immediately recovered, creating a “flushing” action on the carpet. There are many variations of hot water extraction. From the most powerful truck-mounted machine down to the small portable machine rented from the grocery store. What’s the difference. Every machine has different capabilities. Mainly the pressure in which the water is produced and the recovery capability.

However, the biggest and most important difference is in the person cleaning the carpet. A trained technician will know what pressure to use, what cleaning products to use, and how to get maximum soil removal and maximum spot removal without over-wetting the carpet or leaving a sticky residue behind. The horror stories of carpet being wet for days is due to operator error, not because “steam” or “hot water extraction” caused it.

Hot Water Extraction done properly will remove more soil than any other method. Further, anything that has seeped into the backing such as urine, coffee, beverages or something can be “flushed out” with hot water extraction. It can also be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations as it is very versatile.

Method #2: Absorbent Pad

Also known as bonnet cleaning, this method employs a round pad that spins across the surface of the carpet, absorbing the soil. A solution is applied to the carpet or the pad to aid in releasing soils. This is a method that some may classify as “dry cleaning” although water based products are used in almost all “dry cleaning” systems, therefore the term dry cleaning (cleaning with only a solvent based cleaner) is not technical and would not be desired. Absorbent pad cleaning is not a deep cleaning method. It should only be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations.

Method #3: Dry Compound
This method uses a powder that has been treated with detergents, water, and solvents. The powder compound is sprinkled onto the carpet and a brush with cylindrical brushes is used to work the powder into the carpet pile. The solution that is in the powder releases the soil. The soil is then absorbed into the absorbent powder. This method should only be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations.

Method # 4: Shampoo or Dry Foam

In this method, a shampoo or foam is generated and worked into the carpet with a rotary brush or cylindrical brush machine. The shampoo or foam releases the soil. The soil is then vacuumed with the machine or allowed to dry and removed with a conventional vacuum cleaner. This method should be used in only lightly soiled situations and maintenance cleaning. When using shampoo, great care should be taken to avoid leaving a sticky residue on the carpet.

The following recommendations assume water-related storm damage to residential or light commercial structures. For recommendations regarding restoration of major commercial properties and building assemblies, it is important to consult with professionals who have specific training and experience in this area.

Whether insured or not, it is important for property owners to document damage with photographs or video, and immediately, to begin loss mitigation procedures themselves; or hire a qualified contractor to do this on their behalf. It is totally inappropriate to put off mitigation while waiting for an insurance claims representative to arrive on the scene to evaluate the loss. By that time, in all probability sufficient time will have passed to grow and amplify microorganisms, which may not be covered by insurance. Loss mitigation is defined by insurance policies as “reasonable and prudent measures designed to preserve, protect and secure property from further damage,” including microbial growth and amplification.

According to the IICRC Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Water Damage Restoration (IICRC S500), there are three categories of water that cause damage in buildings. They are summarized as follows:

Category 1 Water – That which is clean at the releasing source and does not pose a hazard if consumed by humans. Category 1 water may become progressively contaminated as it mixes with soils on or within floor coverings or building assemblies (walls, decking, subflooring). Time and temperature, which promote the growth and amplification of microorganisms in water can cause Category 1 water to degrade. Examples: burst water pipes, failed supply lines on appliances, vertically falling rainwater.

Category 2 Water – That which begins with some degree of contamination and could cause sickness or discomfort if consumed by humans. As with Category 1 water, time and temperature can cause Category 2 water to become progressively more contaminated.

Category 3 Water – That which is highly contaminated and could cause death or serious illness if consumed by humans. Examples: sewage, rising flood water from rivers and streams, ground surface water flowing horizontally into homes. There are two ways in which water enters a building as a result of wind storm damage:
The first involves falling or windblown rainwater that enters as a result of damage to roof components or wall assemblies. The second involves horizontally traveling ground surface water (Category 3) containing silt and soil contaminants that infiltrate into structures, generally through doors or around foundation walls. This ground surface water (storm surge) may accumulate to a depth of several inches or several feet. When structures are partially submerged or remain substantially flooded for weeks, far more elaborate procedures usually are required.
Most household microorganisms (fungi, bacteria) typically require five conditions for germination, growth, amplification and dissemination. Generally, they include:

• organic food source, especially cellulose (e.g., paper, wood), which are found in abundance in construction materials
• moisture, even high humidity (67% RH plus)
• moderate temperature – 68-86°F/20-30°C
• stagnant air
• time – several hours to several days

Anything that can be done to control or minimize these optimum conditions will prolong the time required for microbial growth.

With the above background information in mind, loss mitigation procedures may include but are not necessarily limited to:

A. Foremost, consider safety:
1. Structural Integrity – Before entering a storm or flood-damaged structure, consider structural integrity, which may be impacted by the force of the wind on, or the force of the water entering the structure. When in doubt, obtain an evaluation by a licensed and qualified builder or structural engineer before entering.
2. Ventilation – Fresh moving air discourages the growth and amplification of microorganisms. Open windows and doors and air the structure out thoroughly. It is highly recommended that ventilation be maintained during and following the restoration effort, or until damp areas can be contained and subjected to mechanical dehumidification (HVAC or specialized equipment). This reduces, but does not eliminate, inhalation of microorganisms.
3. Shock Hazards – Ensure that electrical shock hazards have been eliminated by turning off the supply of electricity (circuit breakers) to damaged areas. Anticipate that electricity may be restored suddenly without notice.
4. Personal Protective Equipment – Wear protective clothing, boots with steel or fiberglass shanks, and a hard hat. Protect yourself from injury or exposure to microorganisms. Wear protective gloves before handling contaminated materials. Splash goggles are highly recommended to protect and prevent microorganism entry through the eyes. An organic vapor respirator (paint respirator) is highly recommended to prevent inhalation of most microorganisms or spores.

B. Remove quantities of debris (silt, vegetation, floating objects brought in by storm surge), if present, with shovels, rakes, etc. Carefully clean all tools with appropriate detergents after use.

C. Identify the source of water and extent of wetting:
1. When wind-blown rain water enters a building, it is important to identify the route of entry and to trace its path, as possible, to identify all wet components (ceilings, walls, insulation, framing). Professional water restoration contractors, when available, have specialized water-detection equipment and may be available to assist in this determination.
2. In rising water situations, typically there will be a visible water line on drywall or paneling. However, water may migrate or wick upward within the wall material itself or within insulation behind the wall.

D. Remove unsalvable or wet materials:
1. When wetting is caused by storm damage and comes from overhead or around openings in the building envelope, and especially when power has been interrupted in hot climates, it is important to remove wet components, as possible, to expose pockets of saturation to air circulation before microbial growth can occur.

a) Begin at the point of water entry and trace the path of wetting, removing ceiling and wall components and insulation as you go.
b) Although it may be possible for professionals with specialized equipment to dry carpet, pad and subflooring materials, when damage is wholesale in an area, seldom will qualified contractors be available to respond for this work. Therefore, it is normally prudent to remove saturated carpet and pad.
c) It is highly recommended that solid or laminated wood flooring, or sheet vinyl be removed to expose pockets of saturation.

2. In rising water situations (storm surge with contaminated ground water):

a) Remove and dispose of drywall (Sheetrock®), paneling or other wall materials up to a point 15-24″ inches above the water line visible on the wall. If possible, stay within four feet of the floor to salvage as much wall material as possible, since drywall is usually installed horizontally in 4’x8’ or 4’x12’ panels.
b) Remove and dispose of wet insulation materials exposed during wall removal. Look for evidence of moisture wicking up insulation materials. Leave only wall framing components that are durable and minimally porous, and which can be cleaned and decontaminated with relative ease.
c) Remove and dispose of floor coverings; carpet, cushion, pad, felt and sheet vinyl, laminate, or tile flooring materials. Porous materials may absorb considerable quantities of water and contaminant, and non-porous materials may trap moisture to prolong drying. The inevitable result will be rapid microorganism growth, along with associated odor and health hazards. Hardwood flooring should be removed since contaminants and moisture will collect underneath in the flutes or hollow areas between the hardwood and the subfloor.

E. With Category 1 (clean source) water (e.g., rainwater), drying is the next course of action required to prevent on-going damage due to microbial development.

The following procedures may require the assistance of a professional water damage restoration company, if available, which has trained technicians, specialized cleaners, biocides, extraction, drying and dehumidifying equipment, and moisture measuring and monitoring instruments. A certified professional can be located by calling the non-profit IICRC toll free at 800-835-4624 or by accessing www.certifiedcleaners.org. When approached by any company for water restoration services, ask to see the technician’s official IICRC wallet card that attests to his or her training and certification, or call the IICRC’s toll-free number for verification.

F. With ground surface water (Category 3), steps for cleaning soil residues brought in by heavy rainfall or storm surge may include, but are not limited to the following:
1. Since many biocides are inactivated by quantities of organic contaminants, cleaning always should precede biocide application.
2. When fresh water is restored within the structure, mix an appropriate general-purpose household cleaner according to label directions and liberally spray it onto salvable components.
3. Brush agitation may be required to evenly distribute cleaning solutions, followed by at least ten minutes of “dwell time” for soil suspension.
4. Where appropriate, flush contaminants from salvageable surfaces with a water hose or pressure washer. Work from top-to-bottom and from walls-to-flooring.
5. Wet vacuum or mop up excess rinse water from flooring materials immediately. Be sure to thoroughly flush all contamination from wall frame (sill plate) areas. Pressure washing, if available, is specifically recommended to flush contaminants from hard-to-access areas, followed by removal of contaminated water with industrial wet vacuuming equipment.
6. Repeat steps 6-9 as necessary, until all surfaces are clean and contamination is physically removed.

G. Disinfecting:
1. Applying disinfectants or biocides usually is unnecessary with Category 1 (clean source) water, since this may only serve to introduce additional moisture into the building, which may prolong drying.
2. With Category 2 or 3 water contamination, while maintaining ventilation and skin and respiratory protection, liberally spray cleaned salvageable materials (studs, decking, joists, etc.) with an appropriate biocide. A 6% solution of household chlorine bleach (e.g., Clorox®) mixed 1 part bleach to 11 parts water (½%) may be used on durable, colorfast surfaces. Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia or strong acids! An appropriate alternative to chlorine bleach may be a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide.
3. In rising water situations, following application of properly diluted biocides, brush agitate all areas to encourage biocide distribution and penetration into cracks and crevices.

H. Dry structural components with plenty of air circulation, while maintaining constant ventilation (weather conditions permitting). If possible, take advantage of low outside humidity (check local weather reports). Use oscillating or box fans, repositioning them within the structure every few hours. Avoid temperature extremes that might slow drying, or promote microorganism growth (around 72-75oF/22-24oC is ideal). Rent high-volume professional drying equipment (airmovers and dehumidifiers) if available, especially in areas where ventilation is not possible (sealed buildings, security problems). It is highly recommended that electrical components that were wet be checked for operational safety by a qualified contractor.

I. Leave cleaned structural surfaces exposed to fresh air movement for several days or even weeks, or until you are sure that they have returned to within four percentage points of normal moisture content (MC) levels (generally the normal MC of structural wood is around 10%). Otherwise, subsequent structural damage and/or health effects may result after wall and flooring materials have been replaced or painted. Professional water restoration contractors with specialized, high-capacity drying equipment can shorten drying times considerably.

J. Reconstruct or replace components as required.

Where financial resources permit, it is highly recommended that comprehensive restoration be accomplished by trained, Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) Water Damage Restoration Technicians. They may be located by calling the IICRC referral line at 800-835-4624 or by accessing www.certifiedcleaners.org. Consider hiring a professional restorer to evaluate moisture levels in structural materials before reconstruction.

Mold can grow almost anywhere in a home if conditions permit. If there is visible growth on painted wall surfaces, a homeowner should be concerned about what may be growing on the opposite side. The environment inside the walls of a house often differs drastically from the outside and could create a perfect haven for mold. If the wall was wet for a prolonged period, it’s almost guaranteed that the mold growth on the back side will be worse than on the front. At that point, containing the work space and removing moldy materials, followed by cleaning of salvageable framing, are the best options.

The non-profit Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) recommends that homeowners contact a certified professional to ensure that mold is removed correctly and occupants are protected throughout the job. Typically, to contain and prevent further contamination, certified professionals can:

1. Verify that the moisture source has been eliminated or repaired

2. Contain the area to prevent cross contamination

3. Create negative pressure using specialized air filtration devices to prevent mold spores from spreading to unaffected areas

4. Recommend an indoor environmental professional to sample and evaluate the mold problem

5. Vacuum affected areas using equipment with high efficiency filters

6. Isolate, remove and properly dispose of heavily contaminated materials

7. HEPA vacuum exposed pockets of growth

8. Dry materials, using procedures outlined in IICRC S520 Standard for Mold Remediation

Sometimes when you take a friends advice on who to use, does not mean it’s the right choice for your home. If the service professional they recommend to you is not a certified cleaning professional with the IICRC – you just voided your warranty. Unfortunately many people are not aware of this important fact.

The carpet cleaning machines you can buy from the hardware stores or rent from your local supermarkets can and will damage your carpet. These machines do not have the vacuum power to extract the dirty water from the carpet, creating a major health concern. When you wet dirt it turns into “mud” which happens when using these machines. This is just one of the ways your warranty will be voided if you choose to take this option for maintaining your carpet.

Selecting a certified carpet cleaning professional is the first step to not voiding your warranty. Most certified carpet cleaning professionals will be able to tell you the does and don’ts about your flooring. When selecting a carpet cleaning company you want to ask them five very important questions before you hire them.

1. What kind of reputation do they have? Make sure that carpet retailer, realtor, interior designer, and other sources refer this company. Hiring a company with a great reputation will hopefully insure if a problem arises they will help you out even after the job has been paid for.
2. What experience do they have? Check to see if they have experience in all fabric & flooring types. They should be familiar with all kinds of soiling conditions, and be able to give you a realistic expectation of how the carpet will look once complete.
3. What kind of systems do they use? The equipment they use should be state-of-the-art truck mounted units. Should have at least a 6 step procedure for cleaning your carpet (Vacuuming, Pre-Treat, Pre-Groom, Steam Clean, Post- Spot, Speed Dry).
4. Are they educated in their field? Never hire a company that is not IICRC certified. The Institute of Inspection Cleaning & Restoration Certification is the most recognized body of certification in the cleaning world. All carpet manufactures void the warranties if your cleaning was not been performed by an IICRC cleaning professional.
5. Do they guarantee their work? Most reputable cleaning companies will, if they do not – look for someone else. Every company deserves to have a second chance if the cleaning was not up to par. If you are still unhappy after they tried a second time; you should not have to pay for the service.

If a cleaning company passes all these questions and you are still a little unsure -ask them to perform a demo for you. This will give you a firsthand view about what kind of company you are hiring. This system for hiring a cleaning company should void out all the “uneducated cleaners” out there.

Would you be surprised to learn that most carpet cleaning companies have no formal training? They are not required to be licensed?  That there is no requirement for companies to have any certification what so ever?  Is Training and certification important?  After all, isn’t carpet cleaning a “menial” task anyone can perform?

Actually, a carpet cleaning professional is working with one of the most valuable assets in your home.  Should it be trusted with just anyone?  Unfortunately, the carpet cleaning industry is full of “rogues” that only care about how much money they can get from you, and nothing about the life of your carpeting.  They do not care about the industry in which they work.

Have you ever noticed that in many states, Air conditioning companies, Plumbers, and Pest Control companies are required to be licensed?  Not so for carpet cleaners.  Fortunately for you and for me, there are fine people in the carpet cleaning industry that realize the standard must be raised.  Those of us in that process help to police our own industry.  In order to do this, associations and certification organizations were created.

One such organization is the IICRC (Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and restoration Certification).  This organization provides certification courses and exams for the carpet cleaning industry.  By attending these courses, carpet cleaners are taught about fiber identification, carpet construction, cleaning chemistry, cleaning methods, and professionalism.

Carpet Manufactures are also monitoring the situation as well, and this is why if you have someone that is NOT IICRC Certified clean your carpet, don’t clean your carpet ever 12 months, or clean it yourself you will void your built in warranty from the manufacture.  Carpet manufactures also will void your warranty if you use any other cleaning method besides “HOT WATER EXTRACTION.”

• http://www.shawfloors.com/cms/Articles.aspx?DN=1129,1112,1106,29,4,Documents
• http://www.mohawkflooring.com/my-mohawk/mohawk-warranties/carpet.aspx

There are several levels of certification:  Certified Technician, Journeyman Technician, and Master Cleaning Technician which requires a number of certification categories and 3 years of study.

So, the question remains – “Does it mean anything?”  Yes,yes,yes!  It means a lot! It means that the certified firm is on the cutting edge of technology and change in the industry.  It means that a certified firm knows the right way to apply cleaning procedures and chemistry.  It means that the certified firm is working together with other certified firms to raise the standard of carpet cleaning in general, therefore providing you with a higher quality product.