Do you live or have a second home in a highly humid area?  If so, this article is for you.  The real question you have to be asking yourself is, what are you sleeping with?  Better yet what are you living with?

On average, we spend about one third of our time in bed. Up to 60% of the dust mites found in the home are actually living in your bed! Watch the CNN video below to learn more about dust mites.

According to the Center for Disease Control, a mattress can have anywhere between 10,000 to 10 million dust mites in it. Dust mites don’t bite, but they can make life pretty uncomfortable for you or any of your family members who suffer from allergies or asthma.

If you wake up with a stuffy head or have a hard time getting a good night’s sleep, it’s time to think about cleaning your bed, and it goes deeper than flipping the mattress or washing the sheets. Albemarle can help you clean your mattress to eliminate dust mites and neutralize the allergens that they produce.

Allergy Relief Treatment
The Albemarle mattress cleaning process is designed to thoroughly clean your mattress and effectively eliminate allergen problems.

Our mattress cleaning is a multi-step process:

• We vacuum the mattress on all sides to remove loose dirt and dust with HEPA-filtration or exterior vented vacuum.
• The Mattress is then steam cleaned on all surfaces with a special low moisture cleaning tool designed to leave the mattress as dry as possible. This will kill and remove most dust mites.
• Allergy Relief Treatment™, a hypoallergenic solution that effectively neutralizes the allergens, is applied to all mattress surfaces using a fine mist application.
• A high velocity air mover is used to speed the drying process.
• Your mattress is then returned to your bed, ready for a good night’s sleep.

Albemarle also recommends that you clean the bedroom carpets, draperies, and any upholstered furniture pieces at the same time. The Allergy Relief Treatment™ can reduce levels of dust mite and pet allergens by 90% or more. You and your family will breathe easier- starting now.

Allergens

Some biopollutants, such as animals, dander, house dust mites, and mold, have been linked to allergies and asthma, and many of these substances are commonly found in the average home.  It is important to understand that the mere presence of allergens does not in itself pose a hazard.  The allergen must be inhaled for exposure to occur, and in order for inhalation to occur, the allergen must be airborne.

Carpet acts as a trap for allergens

Carpet is capable of holding significant quantities of soil, dust, etc., without appearing very dirty.  It has been demonstrated that carpet is quite efficient at keeping allergen and other small particles such as pollen out of the air.  In fact, data from a Swedish government study indicates that when use of carpet declined, the number of people reporting allergy problems increased.

Regular vacuuming with a vacuum using a high-efficiency filter and periodic cleaning using the hot-water extraction cleaning (”steam cleaning”) removes the majority of allergen from carpet as well as significantly reducing mite populations.

Research has clearly shown that there is no correlation between allergen contained in carpet and allergen in the air in the carpeted room.

Research on carpet

In 2002, two schools in North Carolina were the subject of a study conducted by Research Triangle Institue (RTI) and University of North Carolina (UNC) investigators.  One school had mostly resilient tile floors, while the other was 70-75% carpeted. The study found that airborne contaminants, possible sources of allergens, were higher over the tiled floors than over carpet.

Also in 2002, Professional Testing Laboratory studied the effect of foot traffic on air quality, using commercial carpet and commercial vinyl flooring.  Following 16 minutes of foot traffic over both surfaces, the particulate concentration over the vinyl floor was found to be four times that of carpet.

Other studies, including one using Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD), have reinforced these findings and concluded that carpets actually reduce exposure to particulates and potential adverse health effects.

In a recent paper, “Carpet, Asthma and Allergies – Myth or Realty,” Dr. Mitchell Sauerhoff, Ph.D., DABT, examined numerous scientific studies and other research contradicting some long-held beliefs on carpet’s alleged negative characteristics.

Sauerhoff concluded, “…based on the available science, carpet does not cause asthma or allergies and does not increase the incidence or severity of asthma or allergies symptoms. In fact, with respect to asthma and allergies, multiple studies have reported fewer allergy and asthma symptoms associated with carpet.”

Pad makes carpet feel better.

Every step you take creates hundreds of pounds of pressure per square inch in your floor covering. Carpet padding, or cushion as it is sometimes called, helps alleviate that pressure. The decrease in pressure helps make your carpet feel richer, thicker, and softer.

It will make your room quieter and warmer.

Carpet cushion can significantly improve a carpet’s sound-absorption and improve its thermal insulation properties.

It will help you keep your carpet cleaner

Dirt can grind down carpet fiber the way sandpaper wears down wood, and thus shortens carpet life. A quality cushion makes cleaning more efficient because it raises carpet off the subfloor and provides an air space underneath, allowing the carpet to breathe. When you vacuum, that space allows more air to come up through the carpet, carrying more dirt along with it. The result is more effective cleaning every time.

And most importantly, it will make your carpet last longer.

A quality carpet cushion helps decrease pile crushing, the acute compression of fibers in a high-traffic area, particularly in hallways. The pad allows the carpet to maintain its pile height and stay looking new for much longer. Industry studies have shown that quality cushion can actually increase the useful life of carpet as much as 50%

Information provided by Shaw Carpet.

Myth # 1 – Sewage from oceans, lakes or rivers is clean. This water contains contaminants such as microorganisms, bacteria and pesticides. Trapped inside walls or under floor coverings, it doesn’t take long to become a “smelly” health hazard.

Myth # 2 – Chlorine bleach decontaminates sewage. While bleach is a remedy, it’s quickly inactivated by sewage. Even dead fungi and bacteria may contain chemicals that cause an allergic response. Affected areas should be cleaned thoroughly, followed by appropriate disinfectant application.

Myth #3 – Sewage-saturated carpets can be “saved.” Absolutely not! Porous materials, such as carpet, pad, upholstery, bedding, wicker, paper goods, or fabrics that can’t be washed in hot water, must be disposed of safely.

Myth #4 – Partially sewage-flooded buildings are safe. Not unless contaminated areas can be sealed off to prevent cross-contamination of other areas. Only trained professionals using specialized equipment are qualified to restore sewage damage.

According to the experts, regular vacuuming and maintenance won’t always prevent damage caused by traffic, children, pets and other normal wear. Over time, carpet may become soiled, torn, burned, or lose color.

Trained, certified professionals offer simple suggestions on how to keep carpet looking new. Some common problems these professionals encounter include:

Open seams: Seam failure has a variety of causes and can become an unsightly hazard if not repaired promptly.

Burns or melted areas in carpet: Excessive heat or sparks from a variety of sources, including fireplaces, cigarette ashes, or irons can melt carpet fibers. Restoring your carpet’s appearance may involve clipping or replacing the singed tufts.

Pulled yarns or missing tufts: Pulled yarns or missing tufts are caused by a number of conditions including normal wear and tear, improper shipping/handling or pet damage. Sprouting tufts should be clipped immediately, and simple repairs can prevent further damage.

Bleached spots and discolorations: Chlorine bleach, acne medications or harsh cleaners can remove or alter the color of your carpet. Often re-dyeing or replacing carpet in the affected area is the best option to restore its appearance.

Ripples: Buckles or ripples may form in carpet over time. If left uncorrected, they may lead to premature soiling, wear or delamination. To prevent this, the carpet should be re-stretched.

To help maintain your carpet’s appearance and ensure satisfaction with the services performed, the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) recommends hiring an IICRC-Certified Firm employing an IICRC-Certified Repair and Re-installation technician to repair your carpet.

Professional carpet cleaners – It is to your advantage to use professional cleaners because their experience enables them to do a better job than you can do yourself. Their equipment has more extraction power than the rental units available to you, and the carpet should dry more quickly. True professionals have also made the investment in training to understand the equipment, to know the proper cleaning agents for the situation at hand, and to recognize the differences in fibers and carpet construction.

Shaw Industries recommends an IICRC technician (Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification).

Professional Cleaning – As a general rule, professional cleaning by a certified firm, should take place once per year. Many stain resist warranties require professional cleaning every 6 to 24 months or your warranty is void. This removes toxic pollutants for health reasons and helps with the performance of your carpet. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification, Carpet Rug Institute and your carpet manufacture they recommend hot water extraction every 6 to 12 months for health reasons. This is the industries minimum standard for the consumers protection.

Please read on for more facts about allergies, as well as practical tips on how to maintain the home to prevent allergies.

You can breathe easier in your home.
Ask the Allergist

What is an allergen?
An allergen is any substance that can trigger an allergic response. Besides indoor substances, outdoor pollens and foods are common allergens. When an allergic person encounters an allergen, the immune system becomes activated. This triggers a complex chain of events, which produce the symptoms of an allergic reaction, such as swelling of tissues, sneezing, wheezing, coughing, and other reactions. It is unclear why some substances trigger allergies and others do not.

Who gets allergies?
It is not yet fully understood why certain people get allergies while others do not. However, we do know that allergies can develop at any age, and heredity plays a key role in who will develop allergies. If one parent has allergies, the child will develop allergies 48 percent of the time, and if both parents have allergies, the child’s risk grows to 70 percent.

How can I find out more about allergies?
If you suspect you may be suffering from allergies, contact an allergist /immunologist. Your allergist can perform tests to determine the source of your allergies and then establish the best course of treatment. Often, the first step is to minimize your exposure to your particular allergen(s). You and your allergist can work together so that you can make appropriate changes in your environment.

How to Reduce Allergies in Your Home
Indoor allergens that can be found in the home include dust mites, pet dander, mold, and cockroach allergens. An allergist may recommend environmental control measures for the home depending upon the offending allergen. Complete avoidance may be difficult, but simple steps can be taken to reduce exposure:

Lack of circulation
Opening windows to let indoor allergens out of the home can bring outdoor allergens such as pollen and mold spores into the house. Instead, use heat and air conditioning to clean, circulate and dehumidify the air in the home. Also, using a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter to remove airborne allergens, such as pet dander, can lessen the amount of circulating allergens. Dust mites and cockroach allergens are heavy particles that do not stay suspended in the air and settle quickly, so air filters do not work well for these allergens.

Moisture
Dust mites and molds thrive only in high humidity areas. Maintain the home’s relative humidity level below 55 percent by using heat and/or air-conditioning equipment consistently and using a dehumidifier where necessary – doing so will discourage dust mites and mold growth. Repair all roof and plumbing leaks to prevent mold growth.

Cleaning

Cleaning is the best way to reduce allergens. Done regularly, cleaning stops allergens from accumulating, which helps minimize allergy and/or asthma symptoms. Pay special attention to the bedroom since most exposure to dust mites is while sleeping – 60 percent of dust mite allergen is found in mattresses and bedding. In order to control these allergens, wash bed linens in hot water (at least 130F) weekly and vacuum mattresses regularly. Comforters, blankets and curtains should be washed frequently. Encase pillows, mattresses and box springs in “allergen-control” covers, and freeze or wash stuffed animals weekly in hot water (at least 130F).

Clean and disinfect wet, warm areas – such as kitchens and bathrooms – weekly to stop mold growth.

Smooth floors should be vacuumed, dusted and wet mopped weekly. When sweeping, take care not to circulate dust from the floor into the air.

Vacuum carpet and rugs at least once a week – twice a week in bedrooms and high-traffic areas. Use a well-functioning vacuum cleaner that has adjustable brushes, and bears the Carpet and Rug Institute’s Vacuum Cleaner Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Testing Program green label. These are vacuum cleaners that have been tested for and meet strict standards for removing soil and containing the dust within the bag and the vacuum cleaner. Vacuum cleaners may produce dramatically different cleaning results and impact on the indoor environment. The green label program endorses only vacuum cleaners that perform each of the following three tasks well: soil removal, dust containment (without putting the dust back into the air) and carpet appearance retention.

Vacuum upholstered furniture regularly, and clean hard furniture with a damp cloth. A damp cloth should be used on window treatments, windowsills and window frames, ceiling fans, light fixtures, and storage units as well. Dust also can be reduced by storing books and knick-knacks in closed cabinets – doing so leaves fewer places for dust to settle and makes cleaning easier.

Your allergist/immunologist can provide you with more information on allergies.

Shaw sells PTT under the Corterra brand name, and Mohawk currently sells PTT under two umbrellas; Smartstrand and SmartStrand with DuPont Sorona renewably sourced polymer.

On March 20, the Federal Trade Commission approved a new class of fiber formerly listed as a sub-classification of polyester and called polytrimethylene terephthalate or PTT.

Henceforth, PTT is to be called by the generic name “triexta” and no longer designated under the polyester classification.

This ruling is significant and historic for the carpet industry. This is the first extension that the FTC has approved for textiles in five years and the first extension for residential carpeting in 50 years, since nylon was established under the Textile Fiber Act in June 1959.

The FTC requires three criteria to be proven for a subclass name to be granted:

• It has the same general chemical composition as an established generic fiber category.
• It has distinctive properties of importance to the general public as a result of a new method of manufacture or substantially differentiated physical characteristics, such as fiber structure.
• The distinctive feature(s) of the fiber suitable for uses for which other fibers under the established generic name would not be suited, or would be significantly less well suited. Triexta, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), is similar to polyester, polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Both are dyed with disperse dyes. However, PTT is said to be superior to polyester PET in at least three ways:
  1. softness or hand
  2. durability – more durable than polyester and comparable to nylon, and
  3. permanent stain resistance to common household foods including: red wine, colored beverages, mustard.

Like most synthetic fibers, PTT also is allergy friendly (mold-resistant) and kid safe.

Origins of Triexta

Triexta (PTT) was originally developed and patented by the DuPont in 1941. In 1999, Shell began and marketing PTT under the trade name Corterra.

Like most synthetic fibers, the PTT polymer was derived from petroleum products. However, it did not gain much traction in the carpet market, because of the dominant position of nylon, and the allocation of manufacturer resources to extruding and processing nylon fiber.

Since 2001, Shaw Industries, a subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway, Inc., has marketed the Corterra trade name and has manufactured carpet using PTT, initially for the multi-family housing market.

Triexta, Mohawk’s version of PTT has been marketed under their SmartStrand trade name since 2004. However, when PTT is combined with DuPont’s bio-component made from 37% corn sugar (Bio-PDO), it is marketed under the trade name SmartStrand with DuPont Sorona.

While the professional carpet cleaning industry is always excited by new developments in polymer chemistry, the triexta fiber designation raises a number of issues for professional cleaners:

Dyeing
While triexta can be dyed in a variety of ways, the most common technique employed is continuous dyeing using disperse dyes. At this writing, there appears to be no effort to use print dyeing on triexta carpet. Staining
Although both polyester PET and triexta PTT resist acid dyes, they also resist strong disperse dyes, such as the turmeric used to color yellow mustard. Bleaching
Triexta is resistant to strong oxidizing bleaches, such as sodium hypochlorite, even in concentrated form (6%). In fact, it is said to resist bleaching even better than polyester PET. Fading
Triexta has been subjected to a wide range of colorfastness tests including high concentrations of ozone, nitrogen dioxide, and light and sun fading. Its performance in this area is superior to polyester and Type 6 nylon and comparable to Type 6,6 nylon.

Oil Absorption
Triexta is oleophilic, and performs similarly to polyester PET and olefin. Although additional long-term testing is required, it appears to respond well to removal of oily spots and soils (petroleum, animal, vegetable) using dry solvent spotters and cleaning additives (e.g., propylene glycol).

Hand
Triexta’s hand, while a somewhat subjective evaluation, is achieved by the polymer itself, and is noticeably softer than polyester, and comparable to nylon fiber. Typically, triexta is extruded in the 13-16 denier range. PDO, made from corn sugar, results in the same fiber polymer as that produced from petroleum.

Texture Retention
Both fiber producers and retailers confirm that triexta, which has been on the market since 2004, is not subject to the texture change that is so prevalent in cut-pile or, to a lesser extent, even loop-pile polyester PET carpet that is exposed to vacuuming and traffic over time. Its texture retention is said to be comparable to Type 6 nylon and even as good or better than Type 6,6 nylon.

Cleaning
Cleaning polyester (PET) never has been a problem, and the same should be true of triexta as long as consumers stick to a reasonable frequency (annual for frequently trafficked carpet). In fact, there are no special requirements for cleaning triexta that go beyond the cleaning principles that apply to any other synthetic used in today’s broadloom carpet. However, the impression of cleaning, where light pastels are concerned, may be another story. But that’s a specification problem…

At this point, PTT does not hold a significant carpet market share; however, promotion by major industry players, such as Mohawk, Shaw and DuPont, may change that. As far as long-term performance is concerned, only time will tell. Rest assured, however, that professional cleaners, who deal with the effect of fiber characteristics long after carpet purchase and installation, will be among the first to know.

Written by Ruth Travis & Jeff Bishop

There are 4 methods of carpet cleaning approved by the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification (IICRC), the world’s most recognized body of certification for carpet and upholstery cleaners.

Method 1: Hot Water Extraction

Otherwise known as “steam cleaning”, hot water extraction is the process that most are probably familiar with. Hot water extraction is the correct technical term, not steam cleaning. Actual steam is not used at all. A hot water solution is produced and immediately recovered, creating a “flushing” action on the carpet. There are many variations of hot water extraction. From the most powerful truck-mounted machine down to the small portable machine rented from the grocery store. What’s the difference. Every machine has different capabilities. Mainly the pressure in which the water is produced and the recovery capability.

However, the biggest and most important difference is in the person cleaning the carpet. A trained technician will know what pressure to use, what cleaning products to use, and how to get maximum soil removal and maximum spot removal without over-wetting the carpet or leaving a sticky residue behind. The horror stories of carpet being wet for days is due to operator error, not because “steam” or “hot water extraction” caused it.

Hot Water Extraction done properly will remove more soil than any other method. Further, anything that has seeped into the backing such as urine, coffee, beverages or something can be “flushed out” with hot water extraction. It can also be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations as it is very versatile.

Method #2: Absorbent Pad

Also known as bonnet cleaning, this method employs a round pad that spins across the surface of the carpet, absorbing the soil. A solution is applied to the carpet or the pad to aid in releasing soils. This is a method that some may classify as “dry cleaning” although water based products are used in almost all “dry cleaning” systems, therefore the term dry cleaning (cleaning with only a solvent based cleaner) is not technical and would not be desired. Absorbent pad cleaning is not a deep cleaning method. It should only be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations.

Method #3: Dry Compound
This method uses a powder that has been treated with detergents, water, and solvents. The powder compound is sprinkled onto the carpet and a brush with cylindrical brushes is used to work the powder into the carpet pile. The solution that is in the powder releases the soil. The soil is then absorbed into the absorbent powder. This method should only be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations.

Method # 4: Shampoo or Dry Foam

In this method, a shampoo or foam is generated and worked into the carpet with a rotary brush or cylindrical brush machine. The shampoo or foam releases the soil. The soil is then vacuumed with the machine or allowed to dry and removed with a conventional vacuum cleaner. This method should be used in only lightly soiled situations and maintenance cleaning. When using shampoo, great care should be taken to avoid leaving a sticky residue on the carpet.

The following recommendations assume water-related storm damage to residential or light commercial structures. For recommendations regarding restoration of major commercial properties and building assemblies, it is important to consult with professionals who have specific training and experience in this area.

Whether insured or not, it is important for property owners to document damage with photographs or video, and immediately, to begin loss mitigation procedures themselves; or hire a qualified contractor to do this on their behalf. It is totally inappropriate to put off mitigation while waiting for an insurance claims representative to arrive on the scene to evaluate the loss. By that time, in all probability sufficient time will have passed to grow and amplify microorganisms, which may not be covered by insurance. Loss mitigation is defined by insurance policies as “reasonable and prudent measures designed to preserve, protect and secure property from further damage,” including microbial growth and amplification.

According to the IICRC Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Water Damage Restoration (IICRC S500), there are three categories of water that cause damage in buildings. They are summarized as follows:

Category 1 Water – That which is clean at the releasing source and does not pose a hazard if consumed by humans. Category 1 water may become progressively contaminated as it mixes with soils on or within floor coverings or building assemblies (walls, decking, subflooring). Time and temperature, which promote the growth and amplification of microorganisms in water can cause Category 1 water to degrade. Examples: burst water pipes, failed supply lines on appliances, vertically falling rainwater.

Category 2 Water – That which begins with some degree of contamination and could cause sickness or discomfort if consumed by humans. As with Category 1 water, time and temperature can cause Category 2 water to become progressively more contaminated.

Category 3 Water – That which is highly contaminated and could cause death or serious illness if consumed by humans. Examples: sewage, rising flood water from rivers and streams, ground surface water flowing horizontally into homes. There are two ways in which water enters a building as a result of wind storm damage:
The first involves falling or windblown rainwater that enters as a result of damage to roof components or wall assemblies. The second involves horizontally traveling ground surface water (Category 3) containing silt and soil contaminants that infiltrate into structures, generally through doors or around foundation walls. This ground surface water (storm surge) may accumulate to a depth of several inches or several feet. When structures are partially submerged or remain substantially flooded for weeks, far more elaborate procedures usually are required.
Most household microorganisms (fungi, bacteria) typically require five conditions for germination, growth, amplification and dissemination. Generally, they include:

• organic food source, especially cellulose (e.g., paper, wood), which are found in abundance in construction materials
• moisture, even high humidity (67% RH plus)
• moderate temperature – 68-86°F/20-30°C
• stagnant air
• time – several hours to several days

Anything that can be done to control or minimize these optimum conditions will prolong the time required for microbial growth.

With the above background information in mind, loss mitigation procedures may include but are not necessarily limited to:

A. Foremost, consider safety:
1. Structural Integrity – Before entering a storm or flood-damaged structure, consider structural integrity, which may be impacted by the force of the wind on, or the force of the water entering the structure. When in doubt, obtain an evaluation by a licensed and qualified builder or structural engineer before entering.
2. Ventilation – Fresh moving air discourages the growth and amplification of microorganisms. Open windows and doors and air the structure out thoroughly. It is highly recommended that ventilation be maintained during and following the restoration effort, or until damp areas can be contained and subjected to mechanical dehumidification (HVAC or specialized equipment). This reduces, but does not eliminate, inhalation of microorganisms.
3. Shock Hazards – Ensure that electrical shock hazards have been eliminated by turning off the supply of electricity (circuit breakers) to damaged areas. Anticipate that electricity may be restored suddenly without notice.
4. Personal Protective Equipment – Wear protective clothing, boots with steel or fiberglass shanks, and a hard hat. Protect yourself from injury or exposure to microorganisms. Wear protective gloves before handling contaminated materials. Splash goggles are highly recommended to protect and prevent microorganism entry through the eyes. An organic vapor respirator (paint respirator) is highly recommended to prevent inhalation of most microorganisms or spores.

B. Remove quantities of debris (silt, vegetation, floating objects brought in by storm surge), if present, with shovels, rakes, etc. Carefully clean all tools with appropriate detergents after use.

C. Identify the source of water and extent of wetting:
1. When wind-blown rain water enters a building, it is important to identify the route of entry and to trace its path, as possible, to identify all wet components (ceilings, walls, insulation, framing). Professional water restoration contractors, when available, have specialized water-detection equipment and may be available to assist in this determination.
2. In rising water situations, typically there will be a visible water line on drywall or paneling. However, water may migrate or wick upward within the wall material itself or within insulation behind the wall.

D. Remove unsalvable or wet materials:
1. When wetting is caused by storm damage and comes from overhead or around openings in the building envelope, and especially when power has been interrupted in hot climates, it is important to remove wet components, as possible, to expose pockets of saturation to air circulation before microbial growth can occur.

a) Begin at the point of water entry and trace the path of wetting, removing ceiling and wall components and insulation as you go.
b) Although it may be possible for professionals with specialized equipment to dry carpet, pad and subflooring materials, when damage is wholesale in an area, seldom will qualified contractors be available to respond for this work. Therefore, it is normally prudent to remove saturated carpet and pad.
c) It is highly recommended that solid or laminated wood flooring, or sheet vinyl be removed to expose pockets of saturation.

2. In rising water situations (storm surge with contaminated ground water):

a) Remove and dispose of drywall (Sheetrock®), paneling or other wall materials up to a point 15-24″ inches above the water line visible on the wall. If possible, stay within four feet of the floor to salvage as much wall material as possible, since drywall is usually installed horizontally in 4’x8’ or 4’x12’ panels.
b) Remove and dispose of wet insulation materials exposed during wall removal. Look for evidence of moisture wicking up insulation materials. Leave only wall framing components that are durable and minimally porous, and which can be cleaned and decontaminated with relative ease.
c) Remove and dispose of floor coverings; carpet, cushion, pad, felt and sheet vinyl, laminate, or tile flooring materials. Porous materials may absorb considerable quantities of water and contaminant, and non-porous materials may trap moisture to prolong drying. The inevitable result will be rapid microorganism growth, along with associated odor and health hazards. Hardwood flooring should be removed since contaminants and moisture will collect underneath in the flutes or hollow areas between the hardwood and the subfloor.

E. With Category 1 (clean source) water (e.g., rainwater), drying is the next course of action required to prevent on-going damage due to microbial development.

The following procedures may require the assistance of a professional water damage restoration company, if available, which has trained technicians, specialized cleaners, biocides, extraction, drying and dehumidifying equipment, and moisture measuring and monitoring instruments. A certified professional can be located by calling the non-profit IICRC toll free at 800-835-4624 or by accessing www.certifiedcleaners.org. When approached by any company for water restoration services, ask to see the technician’s official IICRC wallet card that attests to his or her training and certification, or call the IICRC’s toll-free number for verification.

F. With ground surface water (Category 3), steps for cleaning soil residues brought in by heavy rainfall or storm surge may include, but are not limited to the following:
1. Since many biocides are inactivated by quantities of organic contaminants, cleaning always should precede biocide application.
2. When fresh water is restored within the structure, mix an appropriate general-purpose household cleaner according to label directions and liberally spray it onto salvable components.
3. Brush agitation may be required to evenly distribute cleaning solutions, followed by at least ten minutes of “dwell time” for soil suspension.
4. Where appropriate, flush contaminants from salvageable surfaces with a water hose or pressure washer. Work from top-to-bottom and from walls-to-flooring.
5. Wet vacuum or mop up excess rinse water from flooring materials immediately. Be sure to thoroughly flush all contamination from wall frame (sill plate) areas. Pressure washing, if available, is specifically recommended to flush contaminants from hard-to-access areas, followed by removal of contaminated water with industrial wet vacuuming equipment.
6. Repeat steps 6-9 as necessary, until all surfaces are clean and contamination is physically removed.

G. Disinfecting:
1. Applying disinfectants or biocides usually is unnecessary with Category 1 (clean source) water, since this may only serve to introduce additional moisture into the building, which may prolong drying.
2. With Category 2 or 3 water contamination, while maintaining ventilation and skin and respiratory protection, liberally spray cleaned salvageable materials (studs, decking, joists, etc.) with an appropriate biocide. A 6% solution of household chlorine bleach (e.g., Clorox®) mixed 1 part bleach to 11 parts water (½%) may be used on durable, colorfast surfaces. Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia or strong acids! An appropriate alternative to chlorine bleach may be a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide.
3. In rising water situations, following application of properly diluted biocides, brush agitate all areas to encourage biocide distribution and penetration into cracks and crevices.

H. Dry structural components with plenty of air circulation, while maintaining constant ventilation (weather conditions permitting). If possible, take advantage of low outside humidity (check local weather reports). Use oscillating or box fans, repositioning them within the structure every few hours. Avoid temperature extremes that might slow drying, or promote microorganism growth (around 72-75oF/22-24oC is ideal). Rent high-volume professional drying equipment (airmovers and dehumidifiers) if available, especially in areas where ventilation is not possible (sealed buildings, security problems). It is highly recommended that electrical components that were wet be checked for operational safety by a qualified contractor.

I. Leave cleaned structural surfaces exposed to fresh air movement for several days or even weeks, or until you are sure that they have returned to within four percentage points of normal moisture content (MC) levels (generally the normal MC of structural wood is around 10%). Otherwise, subsequent structural damage and/or health effects may result after wall and flooring materials have been replaced or painted. Professional water restoration contractors with specialized, high-capacity drying equipment can shorten drying times considerably.

J. Reconstruct or replace components as required.

Where financial resources permit, it is highly recommended that comprehensive restoration be accomplished by trained, Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) Water Damage Restoration Technicians. They may be located by calling the IICRC referral line at 800-835-4624 or by accessing www.certifiedcleaners.org. Consider hiring a professional restorer to evaluate moisture levels in structural materials before reconstruction.